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 For many, the terms Spanish red wine and Rioja are synonymous. This is not surprising since the region accounts for well over 20% of all Spanish wine sales and is highly regarded by consumers at home and abroad. However, not everyone worships at the altar of Rioja and it is fair to say that while the region does produce world-class wines there are some that are average at best. This is also true of wines from the Bordeaux region, where the story of modern Rioja wines begins.
In the 1850s two Spanish noblemen decided to import French wine-making techniques, especially those from the Bordeaux region. So the legend of Rioja was born thanks to the Marquez de Murrieta and the Marquez de Riscal, whose bodegas still produce outstanding wines.
While it is common to perceive of the DOCa Rioja as limited to the geographical region of La Rioja, in fact the DOCa is divided into three distinct sub-zones: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja. Alava has a strong reputation for joven tempranillo wines and Altas reputation rests on the classic crianzas and reserves while Baja produces wines based mainly on the garnacha grape.
A typical blend of Rioja wine would consist of about 70% tempranillo and 20% garnacha with the remaining 10% graciano and/or mazuelo. Naturally, these proportions change from year to year and bodega to bodega. (Bearing in mind Riojas Bordeaux roots it is interesting to compare a Rioja blend to a Medoc, say, which would typically consist of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 15% cabernet franc.)
While many consumers enjoy the oaked characteristics of crianzas and reservas there is much to be said for the fruity vitality of joven Riojas. In addition, winemakers are now producing modern Riojas (high expression and single vineyard wines) which, while respecting tradition, are not limited by it.
And a final comparison with Bordeaux (which some may regard as heresy) a first class Rioja compares very favourably in price to wine of an equivalent quality from Bordeaux.
This Article on Sweet Spanish Wine was written by Steve Bannell of Alegria Wines. Telephone 0034 626 469 154
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